An Insider's Guide To The Kona Coast of Hawaii

With its stark, black lava flows, shimmering blue ocean, and stunning sunsets, the Kona Coast is a vacation mecca on the leeward side of the Big Island of Hawaii. Unfortunately, too many of our visitors spend all their time in the resort areas and never get to experience all the charm that the Kona Coast has to offer. Come with me as I give you all the inside information I've been giving friends for years.

Ali'i Drive is Kona's version of a mini Waikiki Beach with much more charm. The beautiful ocean beckons on one side while the quaint little village shops call out their bargains on the other, With its historic Mokuaikaua Church, the oldest Christian church in Hawaii, and its subdued Hulihe'e Palace, Ali'i Drive is a great way to get to know a little about Kona, However, before you even venture to Ali'i Drive, you must bear in mind one fact - the vast majority of people who work in booths that advertise activities have been in Kona about five minutes longer than you have. Most likely they've come here on vacation and decided to stay. They receive a commission on what they can sell to you, so they are certainly not objective. Instead of taking their advice, just approach someone who looks like they live here (the vast majority of people in Kona are very friendly) and ask them about their favorite activity, beach, restaurant, or store. Visitors approach me all the time (I must look non-threatening) and ask me for advice, which I am more than happy to give. Try asking one of the police officers who patrol on bikes up and down Ali'i Drive where they eat their lunch - chances are it's not one of the two-for-one bargain coupon meals that are advertised in tourist publications.

The photo on the above right is taken at the intersection of Hualalai Road and Ali'i Drive, within walking distance of everything. The parking lot on the right requires you to pay a fee upfront and it is filled with rental cars. The parking lot on the left is free and it is filled with the cars of people who live here. The free lot is more than twice the size of the fee lot, and it contains a Farmer's Market that is open on Wednesdays and weekends. You can park here and walk to almost any store or restaurant - we do!

If you enjoy freshly roasted coffee, Kona is the place for you. The only way to taste the true flavor of Kona coffee is to buy 100% whole-bean Kona coffee fresh from the farms that actually grow it along Mamalahoa Highway in the heart of the "coffee belt'. If you buy 10% Kona coffee that has been mixed with 90% inferior beans and then ground, you might as well just drink generic coffee from the grocery store - the taste will be the same. The coffee-growing village of Holualoa is only three miles up the mountain from Kona, and it has several purveyors of fresh Kona coffee, as well as a wealth of artist galleries with reasonably priced prints to bring home as souvenirs.

Here is the unvarnished truth - the Big Island does not have a lot of great restaurants compared to those on Maui or Oahu. But, there are some hidden gems that will rival anything found on the other islands. The great restaurants don't usually advertise in the visitor publications - they don't need to. Cafe Pesto in Kawaihae (and also in Hilo) was voted the best Big Island restaurant by Honolulu magazine, and their kids' menu was voted one of the best in America.. I dream of their Blue Caesar salad, with its tender little baby romaine lettuce dressed with anchovy butter croutons, and sprinkling of gorgonzola. Pair that salad with a delicious Coltibuono Chianti, and blue cheese lovers will be in Heaven. They have everything from gourmet pizzas to the catch of the day,all with the freshest ingredients possible. I usually avoid eating in tourist areas because the prices are outrageous and the food is often just mediocre. However, Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar in the Waikoloa Beach resort area is the exception. Sansei has the freshest sushi possible, along with steaks for those who are less adventurous. The wait staff is phenomenal, anticipating your every need without drawing unnecessary attention to themselves. Try the Rainbow Roll, an inside-out California roll with slices of salmon and ahi tuna. They even have an icy-cold lychee martini made with lychee vodka - who needs a mai tai? Island Lava Java is the first restaurant that comes to mind when visitors want relaxed oceanfront dining with delicious food. Located on Ali'i Drive, they serve a large variety of coffees, decadent pastries, fresh salads with local greens, and a ever-rotating selection of specials. Their black currant iced tea hits the spot on a hot, Kona day. What goes better with 100% Kona coffee than a delicious pastry, and Coffees 'n Epicurea in Captain Cook has the best of both worlds. Their flourless chocolate silk cake is one of the most sinfully good chocolate pastries I have ever had, and I know my chocolate! I always have a hard time choosing between that and their wonderful lilikoi (passion fruit) cheesecake. Whenever I take friends to visit the volcano, I always stop at Coffees 'n Epicurea to get a selection of desserts for a picnic in the park. They also have a very tasteful gift shop and their own 100% Kona coffee.

Before you enter a single store to buy souvenirs, beach supplies, coffee, macadamia nuts, or clothing, you must go to Costco. They have most everything you'll need for your vacation at prices that can't be matched anywhere else. You can purchase a boogie board, mask, fins, and snorkel for the price of renting them for two days, use them for your whole vacation, and then donate them to a charity like Salvation Army or Goodwill. You'll save money and help those less fortunate as well. Not a Costco member? You can go to the Customer Service counter and get a one day pass.

The word for compassion in Hawaiian is lokomaka'i, which literally means "feeling good inside". I feel good inside when I know I've shared a little bit of my Hawaii with our visitors and helped them enjoy their trip to paradise, with some money left in their pocket. Aloha!